Battered bangers – that’s the delicacy that still springs to mind when I think of motorway service station cuisine, even though I doubt such dubious gastronomic delights have been served in those locations for the best part of 40 years. The uniquely sickly odour that radiated from the battered banger mingled with the pollutants generated by passing vehicles to create a distinct queasiness in the diner whose egg, beans and chips were garnished with two or three of them; along with packets of sugar bearing the stag logo of Trusthouse Forte, these are the signposts that signal the service station as an establishment in my head, though I guess my impression of them remains rooted in the ones I recall calling at during lengthy journeys to holiday destinations as a child. In the 1970s, most retained their original designs – that modernist ‘Scandinavian’ style of the early 60s, resembling the kind of imaginary airport terminals one could imagine Gerry Anderson characters taking off from. Their initial appearance on rural landscapes must have been as much of a surreal site to locals as the super-highways that they were erected to serve, a sample of the future straight from the pages of ‘The Eagle’. With motorways and motorway service stations now having been with us for more than 60 years, however, the sheer ubiquitous nature of both to the British way of life has long since extinguished their exciting novelty.
Whenever one sees early film footage of motorways in this country, the threadbare traffic (not to mention the absence of crash barriers and non-existent speed limits) is a reminder not only that car ownership was considerably smaller at the time, but that the Pathé crews dispatched to capture this Brave New World of high-speed travel on camera missed out on the main beneficiaries of motorways when they first opened, i.e. musicians. Jazz and rock ensembles criss-crossed the road network unlike any other workers outside of long-distance lorry drivers at the time, living hand-to-mouth from gig-to-gig; the arrival of motorways certainly made essential journeys a hell of a lot easier than they’d been when having to use the congested old A and B roads. The innovation of 24-hour services was another welcome development to a nocturnal breed who’d often arrive at their provincial destinations back when the country went to bed early; if they were lucky, the town in question might possess an Indian restaurant. The service station en route was therefore quickly established as a stop-off point, and virtually all of the acts who made their mark in the 60s came to depend on them.
The first two motorway service stations in the UK were Newport Pagnell in Buckinghamshire and Watford Gap, Northamptonshire; they opened their doors on the same day as the M1 opened for traffic, 2 November 1959, though their restaurant facilities didn’t arrive till a year later. Watford Gap’s standing amongst musicians was based more on its status as a meeting place in the wee small hours than its food, the standard of which had deteriorated by the 70s; indeed, the nosh on offer eventually acquired a reputation to rival that of British Rail, so much so that Roy Harper famously penned a tongue-in-cheek track criticising the cuisine on offer – ‘Watford Gap, Watford Gap/A plate of grease and a load of crap.’ A board member of EMI, Harper’s record company, was also a director of Blue Boar, which owned the service station; pressure was brought to bear and Harper was forced to replace the song on subsequent pressings of the album it appeared on in 1977, though it was later reinstated, long after the fuss had died down.
Perhaps the notorious state of Watford Gap’s food, combined with my own memories of the battered banger, were symptomatic of how the optimism of the era in which service stations were viewed as futuristic oases for the traveller of tomorrow had degenerated by the following decade, like so much of the nation’s road and rail facilities during those harsh economic times. Punch-ups between coach-loads of rival football supporters probably didn’t help either, though the thought that went into the design of service stations during their 60s construction – such as all-weather enclosed bridges linking northbound and southbound sides, or the famous air traffic control-like ‘Pennine Tower’ at Lancaster Services (which once housed a restaurant and a sun deck) – were poorly maintained and allowed to slide into disrepair once their shiny newness had faded. Moreover, innovative amenities didn’t yield much in the way of profit, however good they looked, so the condition of many service stations had gradually become grubbier – and the service they provided increasingly basic – by the 1980s.
An overhaul began in the 90s, when many of the familiar high-street chain-stores started to open outlets at service stations and the buildings themselves were given a facelift, losing the distinctive design they’d had from the beginning. As happened to many government-owned properties in the age of privatisation and deregulation, service stations were sold to private companies rather than being leased to old operators such as Granada or the Rank Organisation, and this no doubt played its part in the changes. As a non-motorist, my main experience of motorway service stations is as a childhood passenger, with my awareness of how today’s versions compare to the ones I remember being fairly threadbare. All that has changed over the past week or so, however, due to stumbling upon a YouTube channel new to me – one that goes by the name of Auto Shenanigans; motorways figure highly on this channel, which I found a refreshing change from the multiple YT channels dedicated to trains and rail travel. One series of videos on it sees the host and his sidekick embark upon the bonkers task of visiting all 95 of the UK’s service stations; I’m only around halfway through this mad challenge, but so far the pair have managed to stop at over half of them, and exposure to service stations as they are in the present day has been an eye-opener.
The majority of the service stations visited in these videos resemble the kind of bland, sterile shopping malls that can be found in most major towns and cities throughout the country, boasting the same tired, over-familiar old coffee and fast-food brands that the public evidently can’t do without. One of the services visited – which one escapes me now – even boasted a bloody Wetherspoons pub, something that seems a tad incongruous considering virtually all visitors are driving; perhaps conscious of this, the sale of alcohol at service stations has a chequered history – banned in 1961, reinstated in 1998, banned again (on new sites, anyway) in 2008 and permitted once more as of 2013. However, some of the newer additions to the service station map are consciously environmentally-friendly, such as Gloucester, which opened in 2014 and rejected the usual chain-store monopoly in order to provide food and produce sourced locally; alongside aesthetically-pleasing ponds and garden areas, the building also has a green roof, intended to help it blend into the landscape, which is certainly something the original design of the first wave of service stations couldn’t lay claim to.
The planning of new service stations is often confronted by opposition from local residents, and a fair few projects have been cancelled as a consequence of such opposition; perhaps the efforts of Gloucester to make them more sympathetic to their surroundings is the way forward for these rather unsung institutions that have been with us now for well over half-a-century. To find a YT channel celebrating instead of criticising service stations – albeit with a knowing humour – is a reminder that, whether we like them or not, motorway services are here to stay, and I suppose the country’s increasingly congested motorways today need them more than ever.
© The Editor
Website: https://www.johnnymonroe.co.uk/
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/user?fan_landing=true&u=56665294
Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/843169827